Diary of a Doc: Dr. JJ on a Mission -- Headed to Medellin

Hi everyone...greetings from the Bogota airport! We are waiting for our flight to Medellin, Carmen's hometown. Our 3 days in Bogota sped by, fueled by jet lag and an itinerary that forced us to fall in love with this crowded metropolis. Bogota itself is very green on the periphery, where roses grow in regimented hothouses, visible from the air and country roads. Yesterday we trekked to 2 salt mines where we were awestruck as cathedrals of salt were carved into their walls, and estuaries of salinated water are piped to distant factories to supply salt for industry and consumption. Today we went to the Museo Del Oro, where again, we were slackjawed viewing amazing artifacts, all in pure gold, tracing the history of Colombia from BC to AD. The intricacy of the workmanship and the symbolism were aptly explained by our hero, our tour guide Freddy.

Meals here are so different than the U.S. ...everyone stokes up on breakfast, and the main meal is lunch -- usually around 2pm and most often a 3-hour affair. Today we had an early lunch (noon) at Pescara di Jaramillo -- felt like Miami with marlins on the walls and ceilings regaled with sails. The main choice for most of the folks at the table was a whole fried fish (I'll post pics later), but Don Shaul chose the best ceviche I have ever sampled, and my grilled crab claws and octopus were amazing.

Imagine the face on the poor agent at Avianca when 18 showed up for check-in (today is #2 flight in 7 total legs for this trip!). Now sitting in the lounge enjoying some pretty yummy local snacks called Achiras (kind of like puffy parmesan cheezits) while waiting for our plane to Medellin. It's a half-hour flight and literally scrapes the tops of the Andes enroute...so as we fly in the light of day, hopefully there will be enough sun to take some awesome pictures...

On this leg we visit many of the medical schools and hospitals, and deliver trauma and CPR mannequins to several departments, teach how to put in interosseous lines, and deliver some toys to hospitalized kids. We will consult with the local docs on what they need and want to learn. It will be the beginning of the medical journey we are all yearning to take here. Carmen and Consuelo have been amazing hosts so far, and our accommodations and meals have been first class...not what most of Colombia enjoys daily, but nonetheless providing necessary comfort for this nervous introduction to Colombia.

The company of our traveling companions is wonderful. There have been very few times over the last several years that we have been able to share a conversation without interruption or getting paged, so having in-depth discussions about everything from medicine to kids is wonderful. The kids (ranging in age from 9-19) have been fabulous so far, all bonding on different levels, nary a whine or complaint.
So on day 3, we are ready to start our real journey!

More to come...
xo - JJ

Diary of a Doc: Dr. JJ on a Mission - Colombia Day 2

Day 2, Bogota....a big hiking day, down literally into the salt mines that feed all the industry and provide salt for most of this part of the world. Into 2 of them are built actual cathedrals, where tourists abound, but weddings, funerals and baptisms occur, and also Halloween parties and receptions...every single inch of wall and floor is salt...then to Andres Carnes de Res - the craziest restaurant I've ever seen!

There are so many cars in Bogota that every person's license plate restricts them to driving 2 days/week. Motorcycles are exempt, but riders must wear their licenses on their backs (for security purposes so assassins could be identified. Yikes!)



Entry gates to the farms take on many bizarre shapes and forms.




This is the monument outside the Zipa salt cathedral, where miners work year round excavating 300 acres of underground salt mines...and have built not one, but two salt cathedrals.




Entry to the tunnel, where we hike down a steep 1000 ft drop, pretty much in the dark, with slippery salt floors (they are black -- and only turn white when water is added).




One of the 14 stations of the cross...this particular salt cross is 10 ft tall and weighs upwards of 3 tons.




The salt dome that heralds the entrance to the cathedral -- polished, perfect...looks like the night sky.




A small chapel within, with sandstone sculptures of the birth of Christ in Bethlehem.




A recreation in salt of the Michaelangelo ceiling at the Sistine Chapel. In this frieze, God's hand is 3 times larger than man's. Man has no eyes as he is imperfect.




Overlooking the town of Zipa, site of the first salt cathedral.




A beautiful old woman carting her goods in the small town of the 2nd cathedral.




Entrance to this salt cathedral is supported by Eucalyptus that forms the structural integrity inside. It takes 100 years for it to petrify, harden and become fully encrusted with salt.




This is a reflecting pool, over 100 meters long, 10 feet deep, and thought to have healing powers more powerful than Lourdes.




We turned a corner and gasped at this artist's 2 ton heart sculpture...lit from the front with a small red light and glowing eerily but beautifully.




Stalagtites abounded...looked like frozen icicles. They bend because of the wind in the caves and grow 1 cm /yr. These were all about 200 cm long!




This cow was there when we started our tour
...and still in the exact same place when we finished.




And to top off the day, lunch at the CRAZIEST restaurant -- Andres Carne de Res. At the street you are greeted with so much eye candy, sculptures, stuff hanging from trees and public art...you know something good is inside...




Another vaca, next to a bottle cap-filled heart...he flanks the front door.




Inside...enlarge the pic and play Where's Waldo :-)...in every corner a surprise and discovery. The restaurant has 300 tables that hold 8 people each....it's wild!




At the end of the hallway in the co-ed bathrooms...Ken will never be the same....in the Men's-only room were a pair of breasts at eye level above each urinal...Bucca di Beppo can't even come close to this place!




Pull on the leather arm and the door opens...

More adventures to come...Tomorrow off to Medellin and the top of the Andes....
Happy Independence Day to all! Stay tuned for another post from Mission Colombia!

xo - JJ

Diary of a Doc: Dr. JJ on a Misson...a Medical Mission -- Columbia, Day 1 pics

So excited to show you the pics from yesterday's first day...Here goes!


July 1: first day in Bogota after a redeye from LAX -- all 18 of us arrived in one piece, and never stopped touring all day. Got a little woozy at 10,000 feet at the Monserrat Cathedral, but otherwise hung in...early to bed...more adventures today (pics and today's diary coming soon!)...will try to post daily. xo - JJ

Bogota is very hilly - feels like Old San Juan. CRAZY drivers and no rules...lots of car repair shops!



The streets are as colorful as the people.



We visited the Interior Minister's palace (Palacio di San Carlos) where I fell in love with this mirror (it's 6 feet in diameter!). Do you think they would notice if I "borrowed" it for my living room? Just kidding.



One of the many private courtyards. That'll work.



Old Cathedral. Have you ever seen a more beautiful brilliant blue sky?



In the public square...another friendly alpaca awaits his photo op. (And we just had ponies!)



The ultimate smiling vendor. Chalupa anyone?



The group with the palace guard (yes, they ALL look like they're 15 years old).



Enroute to Monserrat Cathedral -- there is a lovely waterfall with the icon of Bogota on the right -- while you await the tram that takes you on a harrowing 2000 foot vertical rise...you are calmed by this vision.



And then you board...



and go up...



and up...to view this city of 7 million.




And at the top, our group on the steps of the Cathedral in the pouring rain, out of breath and a bit headachey with the sudden rise in altitude...but eager to see the ornate chapel within...

Then back to the hotel after a long lunch at Casa Vieja where we ate corn cakes called arepas - with chimmichurri, amazing empanadas, potato soup, incredible steak, and the local beer - Club Colombia - which was EXCELLENT! Nighty night until tomorrow...

Diary of a Doc: Dr. JJ on a Mission...a Medical Mission -- Colombia, Pt 1

In this Diary of a Doc, we catch up with Dr. JJ on a medical mission to Colombia. Unsure exactly what to expect, yet incredibly excited, the group of 18 landed in Colombia this morning and hit the ground running. Headed up by Dr. Carmen Botero (yep...THAT Botero!), the group of doctors, doctors' children (many quite accomplished in their own right) and contributing guests begin their trip in Bogota, absorbing the sites, sounds and culture of the capital city before heading to Medellin, Cali, Cartagena, back to Bogota and home to the U.S.

Here, Part 1 of Dr. JJ's travel diary:

"Funny I was stressing that I had 2 suitcases, Carmen had 12! And 14 huge boxes…needless to say after arriving in Bogota...getting out of the airport involved going through several gauntlets…but so amazing that a couple of the porters knew and recognized Carmen and treated us with ultimate respect.

Ali Namazie, his wife Giselle (an internist), their 2 girls, Don Shaul & Shirley Suda and their 2 boys, a premed Junior from Masters University, Sister Colleen Settles (an ordained minister and Dominican Nun from Kalamazoo, who ROCKS by the way...), Carmen, her son Omar, assistant Consuelo, Howie and Ellen Reinstein, their adorable daughter Mikaela (a special ed teacher in Oakland), and Mark Koenig, Providence international mission expert compose our contingency.

Air quality in Bogota is horrible – from the air it is so green it looks like a massive golf course with Andes Mountains attached…once on the street, no traffic lanes, CROWDED buses, rogue ambulances and scooters, innumerable car repair shops (wonder why?), cows and horses on mere spits of land between lots of cinderblock buildings…and at the height of the city, modern construction, business people looking like they are out of central casting, our hotel, and 18 hungry and tired travelers awaiting our first stop at 10am this am – the State Palace – where we will have a private diplomatic tour...(stay tuned for pics!)

Since the food on the plane was inedible (but oh, the wine was good), off to a quick breakfast and then the days’ tour…..

Kind of cool that the hotel conserves it's resources – you have to put your key in a slot (a slot they don’t tell you about, btw) in order to turn on any lights in the room. For this tired traveler it took a few minutes…but the internet connection is good…and so far so are we…..

Until next post....

Xo, JJ"